September 18, 2016

So after the angst of attempting to follow the official route yesterday, I decide to take a simpler approach.  Keep the sea to the right of us, the sun somewhere in front, if we see a cycle track we’ll use it and if we don’t we won’t.  We shouldn’t go too far wrong.  And so it proves to be.

A few observations we made today; things you see very rarely – female cyclists (one), Eurovelo signs (four).  Things you see now and then – forts (one in every port).

Things you see very frequently – male cyclists (hundreds), people buying fruit and veg off stalls at the side of the road (thousands), policemen with whistles and arms like windmills trying to move the cars along that have blocked the road when stopping by to buy fruit and veg (several).  No prostitutes today, but it is Sunday.

The route starts off on the road for the first 20 kilometres or so.  The rest of the day is spent right on the beach-side, riding through the sand dunes on a boardwalk.

The sun is shining in that dazzling way it does over the sea and there is a salty sea haze – such a contrast to the disappointment of yesterday.  Every so often we come to a populated part – a couple of beach bars and a few houses – all very relaxed.  That is until we come to Vila do Conde, about 15 kilometres from Porto, when suddenly we are riding through what must be one of the biggest seaside resorts I have ever seen.  There are thousands of people wandering along the promenade, which stretches for miles – many of them herding small children on bikes, roller skates, skate boards or scooters, bigger children whizz about on their bikes, old people walk at a snail’s pace and for some inexplicable reason most do it on the cycle track rather than the extensive area running alongside for pedestrians.  None of this would have mattered too much except I have booked an apartment in Porto, not wanting to repeat yesterday’s experience, and I’ve arranged a time to meet the owner there which is starting to look overly ambitious.  It gets to look downright impossible once we reach Porto itself where the crowds grow to the extent that the pavements and cycle track are completely blocked and the traffic is stationary in a giant traffic jam.

We have to make a detour to get around the blockage, which adds an extra 10 kilometres to the day as well as a lung busting climb, and arrive two hours late.  Fortunately, the owner is understanding.

The apartment is a small and modern; all newly fitted out.  I have great hopes that it will have efficient information technology, but no, my hopes are dashed again.  Regular followers be warned – posts are going to come in fits and starts.