20 June, 2015

So, we have fine drizzle first thing, but still, we manage to get everything packed up almost dry.  We set off in two tops and a thin outer jacket, but we have to stop to put our thick jackets on – it is not warm.  We cross the Danube to the quieter side.   The track is flat and well-surfaced, running right at the side of the river.  The countryside is also open and flat, not particularly scenic.  In theory, we should have a quick run to Vienna but the weather has other ideas.  We have to keep sheltering under trees or bridges from sudden, violent downpours.  Eventually, we get caught in the open and get soaked to the skin; with the cold temperatures it is most unpleasant.  Now we are fully wet we keep cycling in the rain.

The rain clears after about an hour and slowly we dry out as we cycle along.  Our backs and the bags are covered in mud and grit – we’re going to be arriving in Vienna looking for a hotel looking like two tramps.  We try to clean ourselves and the bikes and bags up as best we can.  We’ve still got about 20 kilometres to go.  Ten minutes later the heavens open.  We’re able to stay reasonably dry under a big tree, but then the fun and games start, we absolutely do not want to get soaked through again. We spend ages going from tree to tree between the showers.  At this rate it will be dark before we reach Vienna.  Inevitability we end up soaked and muddy again.

When we reach the city we have the usual problem with sign-posting, but we do have the Danube Canal to guide us to the city centre.  The only hotels we see at first are definitely not for us – five star, all glam and glitter, but heading only a short distance away we find a cheap and cheerful option.  As we have absolutely no time now for looking round Vienna we book in for two nights.  There seems little point in coming all this way and not getting to see the place.

The section of the Eurovelo 6 we have just completed across Austria is the most popular cycle track in Europe.  It is flat and well-surfaced, making it easy enough for anyone to ride, and there are some very scenic sections.  Having said that, there is absolutely no challenge at all and, like everything in Austria, it feels manicured and orderly.  We met and chatted to three lads from Texas who were on their first cycling tour – I’m sure their impression of Europe is that it is all very tame, which is a shame because the cycling challenges are all there but not in this particular part.