8 June, 2015

The Danube is the second longest river in Europe running for 2888 kilometres from its source deep in the Black Forest in south-western Germany to the Black Sea.  We will only be travelling for half its length on this trip and for once we are going to travel downstream, along with everyone else.  When we toured the Rhine last year we spent the whole trip going against the flow, from sea to source.

There are 44 bikes in the garage when we go to collect ours after breakfast and I suspect some of them will be staying there.  Nobody with any sense would be out on a bike today.  After another night of thunderstorms, this morning is different, because it is still raining and it is cold.  Still, we complained enough yesterday about the heat so we can’t complain today.

First things first, the source of the Danube.  Unfortunately, this was closed for renovations –  we did get a photo but it was not looking its best.  The start of the trail is alongside the infant Danube, a raging mud-coloured torrent.

Fortunately, the route is flat because we are fighting a headwind and torrential rain.  So far on this trip we have been very lucky that when it has been raining it has been fine drizzle that makes you damp rather then wet.  Not today however, this stuff wets you to the skin, even through two layers of ‘waterproof’ jackets.  It is not so bad whilst you are pedalling hard, as you keep warm, but once you stop the cold and the wet get to you.  We shelter for a while inside a covered bridge, but to no avail.  The rain just keeps coming.

The big compensation once again is the landscape.  The river runs along a valley which gradually becomes surrounded by limestone cliffs up to 300 metres high, eventually narrowing to a gorge, the upper Danube valley.  Incredibly, castles and palaces were perched high above us, balancing on the cliff edges.  The scenery is dramatic, made more so by the gloomy atmosphere.

Once again the terrain is up and down, but today we cope because of the cool temperature – 17°c.  Much of the route is on gravel and mud tracks and gradually the bikes and bags become caked with mud.

Not a day for camping, so once again we search for a hotel.  This time we find ourselves in a time warp.  A guesthouse where both the owners and the building were at their best at least 30 years ago.  The decor was enough to give you nightmares and the bathroom design was unique!

Asking if there was WiFi was like asking if they organised trips to Mars.