16 May, 2015

For the first time this trip, we have to pack a damp tent and damp belongings, not because it has rained, but because being in the middle of a field everything is covered in dew.  This all takes a bit longer than normal and we make a slow start.  The first obstacle of the day was to get across the river Charente – the only bridge for miles did not look like a place for cycles.  There were two lanes of fast- moving traffic going in both directions.  As it happen, two gendarmes were standing on the slip road going onto the bridge, so I stopped and asked if bikes were allowed to cross.  I was assured that they were and that there was a cycle lane.  It turned out to be a marked path at the side of the road, rather than a separate lane and crossing the bridge with traffic passing one side at 100 kilometres/hour and the side rail with the river far below on the other side was not an enjoyable experience.

The route today is even more varied than yesterday, taking in two large cities, Rochefort and La Rochelle, crossing  open agricultural countryside, following the coastline for a while, passing through a couple of harbours, a seaside town or two and, finally,  following the tow path for a long run alongside a canal.  There is something to see all day long.

The majority of the day has been spent cycling on gravel tracks and we find that we have spent nearly 7 hours to travel 90 kilometres – with the flat terrain we have been covering, on normal roads this would have taken about 5 hours.  We aim to get to Marans where we hope to avoid last night’s problems as the map shows the symbol for both camping and accommodation.  Once we get there we see a couple of expensive looking hotels, a campsite that has closed and another, more modest looking hotel.  We go for what looks like the modest option.  The girl serving in the bar looks a bit shocked when we ask if there is a room.  Looking around, as we wait for her to find the boss to see if there is a room, we start to think we might be trying to book into a brothel.  The arrival of the boss does nothing to reassure us.  However, we do get a room in what appears to be an empty hotel and go over for dinner in the restaurant.  At one end of the dining room someone is singing karaoke,  another part is a disco dance floor and through in another area is a fancy cocktail bar – still not at all sure about this place!  Nevertheless, we get our food, which is very good, and leave everyone else to their partying.  Can’t say we don’t stay in some interesting places.