April 21, 2013

When we look out of the bedroom window this morning we get a bit of a shock – the sky is completely grey with cloud and there is a misty sort of fog everywhere.  As we set off we think it might rain – a complete contrast to the last few days.  It doesn’t and by mid-morning the sun is out and the clouds have disappeared.  It is an ideal temperature for cycling, although a strong breeze picks up and as the day goes on it becomes a headwind; the first of this trip.

The countryside we ride through starts off battle-scarred with mining activity as the area is rich with minerals, but before long returns to open, wild countryside similar to yesterday but with less trees.  The carpets of wild flowers are everywhere, the only break being a solar electric farm (the Spanish take their renewable energy resources seriously).  The road is one of long, gradual ups and downs – a really pleasant ride.  As we near the end of the day, we start to worry about accommodation for the night.  We’re passing through really small farming villages consisting of a few cottages and barns, with an occasional bar if we are lucky and nothing remotely like a place to stay.  At one stage our spirits lift as we see a sign at the side of the road for a ‘rural adventure centre’ offering accommodation, biking, hiking and a host of other activities.  After cycling up a near vertical track to a big ranch-like building we feel quite hopeful, but our hopes are soon to be dashed.  The place is one of these ultra organised, unadventurous adventure centres that we have come across before on our travels.  They are most unhelpful and are clearly only interested in herding people around to participate in their set activities.  We continue onwards towards the next village, Paymogo, which on first inspection looks as unlikely to provide a place to stay as any of the other villages we have passed through today.  However, it turns out there is a hostal – a bit of a faded place but certainly the best option we’re going to find today.