Day 44 – Dordrecht to Bergharen – 106 kms

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May 20, 2014

We have a frustrating start to our day with the first couple of hours spent trying to find our way across a nature reserve. In theory there should have been no problem, as on the map the routes were clearly marked.  However, there are extensive excavations being undertaken to create new flood barriers around the park and the cycle routes have been closed and diverted in a number of places.  Once we leave the diggers behind the route becomes particularly easy to follow as it runs along the top of a bank on the south side of the Waal, which is the branch of the Rhine that we are following across the Rhine delta.  This is exactly how I had envisaged the trip – open countryside on one side of the path and the river on the other, no traffic and hardly any cyclists – the perfect opportunity to just enjoy the cycling for its own sake.

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We are pedalling into a headwind and so we’re not as quick as we would like.  Ahead of us on the track we spot someone going our way on an electric mobility scooter – you would think we would catch it in no time at all, but actually it takes us quite a time.  Next we spot the Viking River Cruiser on the river just ahead of us so we use it as a pacemaker for more than 20 kilometres – we can just keep up with it if we pedal flat-out!  We lose it when our path moves away from the river on a bend, but we expect we’ll see it again at some stage.

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The river has lots of branches running off it and we get used to hopping on and off the river ferries that take cars, bikes and people across – there are bridges at the bigger cities but the smaller places all use ferries. The headwind drops at around 4pm and we suddenly find that we are flying along and making good time. 

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We’re heading for another of our blue ‘tent’ symbols shown on our map which is about 4 or 5 kilometres off the route.  Once again, the map proves to be accurate and we’re able to camp.  Just in time, actually, because as soon as we put the tent up it starts to rain – it has been another scorching day and there is the feel of thunderstorms in the air.  I’m starting to look like an illustration out of a dermatology textbook again – nice examples of sweat rash, saddle sores and infected insect bites – the down side of the hot weather.

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