April 8, 2014

The sun is out with not a cloud to be seen – it’s going to be a scorcher. We’re up, packed and breakfast eaten in no time. This should be the first real day of the tour – yesterday doesn’t count, that was just an ordeal. The first task of the day is to try to get Ken’s bike fixed. We get directions to a bike workshop, which we eventually find up a back street. The bike mechanic wasn’t there when we arrived but we waited and he turned up a few minutes later. After much head scratching he decided that he didn’t have the parts we wanted but, helpfully, he directed us to a bike shop not far away. This turned out to be a place stuffed full of bike kit, with racks and racks of parts, including dozens of chain rings. We should get sorted out here. The mechanic selects the chain rings he says we need and takes the bike into the workshop to fit them. A few minutes later he emerges scratching his head and looking just like the guy in the other place. Apparently, he doesn’t have the right ones after all. He tells us that there are no other bike shops in Loja, so we have no choice but to press on. Ken had managed to develop a bit of a technique yesterday, basically not to change gear, so he should be alright today he only needs bottom gear!

We know that today and the next couple of days are going to be really tough as we’ll be climbing most of the time for all three days. The problem is that no matter how many times we ride out locally, the only way to get fit for touring fully loaded is to tour fully loaded. The first week is always hard work and the route we are doing this time is particularly tough because until we reach Jaén it is mountains all the way. Still, we attack the first climb enthusiastically. The trouble is that by the time we get to mid-afternoon the rest stops are getting longer and more frequent and the time actually cycling shorter and shorter.  The road is one of those that curves up to the horizon giving the impression that the summit is just ahead, except it isn’t, you turn the corner and the road stretches upwards to the next curve on the horizon.  I was off the bike pushing it as much as on it riding – not that pushing the thing is any easier, it just strains a different set of muscles.

We’re heading for the only place to stay for miles around, as we know from our previous tour.  It is a beautiful old Posada, very up-market, not at all our usual style but, as I say, the only place available.  When we arrive at 6pm, the huge front door is firmly bolted with no signs of life – could be a problem.  I wander round and find a neighbour who, very helpfully, pounds on the door with her sweeping brush!  Eventually, the owner emerges and, even though they are actually closed, takes pity on us as he remembers us from our previous visit.  We get the full pampered treatment – dinner with all locally grown organic produce, wine from the owners bodega etc etc.  If anyone ever finds themselves in Almedinilla stay there, it is a gem of a place.