July 8, 2011

As we cycle into the first village after the camp-site for a cup of coffee at the beginning the day, a tune comes over loud speakers all around which would seem more appropriate in a Swiss Alpine village, a sort of yodeling song, heralding a public announcement.  The doctor will be in the village from 12.30 pm for consultations, the vegetable van from 10.30 am and the maximum temperature today will be 28 degrees – not sure which of the three we are happiest to hear about!

Today we are going back into high mountain territory.  The temperature is much lower than of late and there is a slight breeze – perfect cycling weather and perfect cycling terrain.  The mountain climbs are as strenuous as any in France, including Mont Ventoux – the first has a 10% gradient for 6 km, but with the cooler weather we feel strong and fly along without a problem.

For lunch we climb into a hilltop fortified town, Morella, which has really impressive preserved walls perched high above the surrounding countryside. 

After lunch, we have another tough climb and by this time, would you believe, we are climbing into grey clouds.  When we reach the top we are cold – we’ve not been that for while – we have to put on our long-sleeved tops for the descent.  At this point we feel ready to find our bed for the night, but the mountains haven’t finished with us just yet.  We collected a brochure from the tourist information in Morella which says that there are several hotels in a village not far away.  Of course it is high on a hilltop – they all are around here.  We slowly make our way up the hill, looking forward to a rest at the top, and in the centre we ask for directions.  Apparently, the hotels are all located together not far away – good we think – but as we follow the instructions we find ourselves going ever upwards out of the village back into the countryside.  We check again with some people at the side of the road – yes, we are going the right way.  Eventually we see signs of life – right at the top of the next mountain.  This is the fifth big climb in one day and just about one too many.

We finally haul ourselves over the crest of the hill to find ourselves in a street with a very strange feel to it – like being in a science fiction movie – it is bustling with people but everyone is old – and I mean old.  The nearest hotel seems to have all the characteristics of a residential home for the elderly but we have to check in – we can’t face another mountain today.  It turns out that this little hilltop place is a well-known local thermal spar and all the elderly are here for its rejuvenating powers.  At dinner, Ken asks me “How do we keep getting ourselves into these weird situations?”  We are the youngest here by decades – a few days ago we were the oldest by decades (in the youth hostel).  Funnily enough, it is the older generation that are more interested in our trip than the younger – we get asked lots of questions about it, but then again, I guess people on bikes are more out-of-place here.