April 14, 2011

Another bright and sunny day, which to start with is a bit like an action replay of yesterday.  Only this time the countryside has a wilder feel to it – more like the Yorkshire Moors.  We have no wind, it is pleasantly warm, the road is small and quiet – a perfect ride.

Then the whole mood changes.  Firstly, the squeak returns.  Ken repeatedly keeps asking, how can it disappear for a day and a half and then just suddenly come back – as if I´m going to know the answer.  Then, from nowhere, a vicious wind starts to blow right into our faces.  Next, we arrive at the place we hoped to stay for the night (at the 90 km point) and the only ‘hostal’ in the village is closed, so we have to keep going.  The wind by this time has slowed us right down to a crawl and we have to continue for another 20 or so kilometres to the next big place.  This is our longest day on the bikes (8 hours in all); Ken has pains in his fingers and my right knee really hurts.  We are very disheartened.

We arrive only just before nightfall and have to push the bikes around a large and busy city centre looking for somewhere to stay.  The choice turns out to be a big plush looking 5 star hotel or a 2 star ‘hostal’.   Being a bit concerned that the 5 star might not want two dishevelled looking misfits in its lobby, we decide to go for the 2 star – big mistake!  It is absolutely horrible.  It smells mouldy and we are so undecided about whether the sheets are damp that we sleep on top of the bed in our sleeping bags.  Oh dear – let´s hope tomorrow is a better day.